As you transition from the brioche foundation row of the neckline, you’ll begin incorporating your raglan increases.

Looking at your neckline so far, you’ll see 4 pairs of stitch markers. You can think of each pair, and the two stitches between them, as a unit. The two stitches in the center of each pair of markers are you raglan seam stitches.

We’ll be working these stitches in stockinette.

This means that we’ll be adding our increase stitches on either side of the raglan seam.

Here’s a quick diagram to show you where you’ll be adding your stitches:

When you reach your first stitch marker you’ll be increasing into the yarn strand between the previous stitch and the raglan seam stitch.

Then you’ll work the two raglan seam stitches.

Finally you’ll add another stitch, increasing into the strand between the pervious raglan seam stitch and the next stitch.

You’ll repeat this sequence a total of four times as shown in the video above, once for each raglan seam.

Here is the sequence to follow for the first 7 rows:

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• Knit – K
• Purl – P
• Slip Stitch – Sl

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• Make One (Increase)* – M1
• Slip Marker – SM
• ( ) – Repeat

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* This is a generic increase abbreviation. Use whatever method you choose to add a stitch[/su_box]

ROW 1: Sl 1, M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, Sl 1.

ROW 2: P 2, SM, p2, SM, (Work in pattern* until marker), SM, p2, SM, (Work in pattern* until marker), SM, p2, SM, (Work in pattern* until marker), SM, p2, SM, k1, p1.

ROW 3: Sl 1, p1, M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, k1, Sl 1.

ROW 4: P 2, k1, SM, p2, SM, (Work in pattern* until marker), SM, p2, SM, (Work in pattern* until marker), SM, p2, SM, (Work in pattern* until marker), SM, p2, SM, p1, k1, p1.

ROW 5: Sl 1, sl1yo, k1, M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, sl1yo, k1, Sl 1.

ROW 6: P 1, (Work in pattern* until marker), SM, p2, SM, (Work in pattern* until marker), SM, p2, SM, (Work in pattern* until marker), SM, p2, SM, (Work in pattern* until marker), SM, p2, SM, (Work in pattern* until last stitch), p1.

ROW 7: Sl 1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until marker), M1, SM, k2, SM, M1, (Work in pattern* until last stitch), Sl 1.

Repeat ROWS 6 & 7 until Raglan length is reached.
[su_box title=”* Working In Brioche Pattern” box_color=”#cccccc” radius=”0″]

The brioche pattern is worked as follows:

(Slip 1 Yarn Over, Brioche Knit)

Brioche Abbreviations Explained

Slip 1 Yarn Over (SL1YO): With yarn in front, slip the next PURL stitch purl wise. Then bring the yarn over the needle and hold behind the work.

Brioche Knit (BRK): Insert needle into the next KNIT stitch AND the YARN OVER on top of it. Knit these two together as if they were one stitch.

Notes On Adding New Stitches In Pattern

• If you finish a SL1YO and you have one stitch left before the next stitch marker, you’ll bring the yarn over the needle and knit the stitch.
• If you finish a Brioche Knit, you do a SL1YO for the next stitch.
• This will also be true for increase stitches at the beginning of each sleeve and back neck section.
• On the wrong side you’ll need to prep the new increased stitches for incorporation into the brioche pattern.

I’ve created a video tutorial walking you through how to do this over a few rows, including the front part of the sweater.

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ADDITIONAL NOTES

– You will be increasing on every RIGHT SIDE row.

– You will be adding ONLY 8 stitches ever increase row.